Yamagata Life Diary: Cherry Blossom Season in Chitoseyama Park
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Cherry blossom season is upon us again, and there is something about the fleeting beauty of sakura flowers that draws so many of us outdoors for what feels like an irresistible rite of spring.
In Yamagata city, you often have to look no further than the garden next door to find a blossoming cherry tree, but for a more well-known display, you can make an outing to see the gorgeous cherry trees in Kajo Park, or stroll along the 2.3 kilometers of cherry trees lining the Mamigasaki River. In my Hirashimizu neighborhood, I also have the option of walking up to Heisenji Temple to pay homage to its two splendid weeping cherry trees, one of which is said to be over 400 years old. It is gnarled, thickened and broken – but when it bursts into graceful bloom, it is ethereal and magnificent.
My personal preference, however, is to search for special, hidden-away spots, so when cherry blossom season arrives, I head to Chitoseyama Park – a little-frequented park that is basically right in my own backyard.
Chitoseyama, or Mt. Chitose, is one of the most-recognized natural landmarks in Yamagata city, a small but beloved local mountain which is an ideal destination if you’re in the mood for an easy hike.
However, surprisingly few people seem to know of the existence of Chitoseyama Park, which is quietly located along a steeply sloping road on the mountain’s west side.
There is nothing fancy about this quiet little park, and its playground equipment has definitely seen better days, but it has an old-fashioned charm that makes it a lovely place to spend a peaceful hour or two.
One of the first things you will notice here are the stone animals which inhabit the park, all of which feel like remnants from an older age. There are three lions and a pair of small elephants, two giraffes, and a zebra and kangaroo. Weatherworn and missing paint (or sometimes their ears) they sit patiently, waiting for a child to come and clamber up on top of them.
The trees which fill the park are also ageing, and not a few of them appear to be nearing the end of their lives. Some are broken or severely pruned, so if you visit in early spring when the trees are bare of leaves, the park has a somewhat lonely and bleak appearance.
But then the cherry trees bloom, and it’s quite a sight to see the empty air between the bare and broken branches suddenly fill with pale pink flowers, as if by magic. The cherry trees in Chitoseyama Park are not planted in neat rows, which adds to their charm. If you visit when they are blossoming, it feels as if you are walking through a small, wild forest of Japanese cherry trees, a place that was created by humans but is slowly returning to nature.
Chitoseyama Park is surprisingly close to the Yamagata Prefectural Office and only a stone’s throw from Route 13, but it’s so quiet and secluded here that it’s easy to forget you are so close to civilization.
If you enjoy cherry blossoms but are not a fan of crowds, this is a good place to go with a child, a friend, or just by yourself. There are not many places where you can have a quiet hanami in what feels like your own private cherry tree forest – but I feel fortunate to have discovered one of them.